If you filtered all the glitz out of Miami, you’d get Naples, Fla. This little Gulf-side city has a pleasingly anodyne quality that’s worlds away from the cosmopolitan bustle found only a two-hour drive due east, on the opposite coast. Affluent Midwesterners, who have adopted Naples as a getaway from disagreeable Northern weather, bring a sure oh-gosh air to town. Don’t be surprised if you keep seeing the same faces over and over — these snowbirds might move at a slower pace than the Miami set, but they get around.
Cocktail hour is sacred around these parts. As the sun sets, make your way to Gumbo Limbo, the beachfront bar and restaurant at the Ritz-Carlton, Naples (280 Vanderbilt Beach Road; 239-598-3300; ritzcarlton.com/naples). Order a Naples Sunset ($12.95), a fruity rum drink, and follow the dipping sun as the outdoor deck lights up with tiki torches and the laughter of the polo-shirt-wearing crowd.
5 p.m.
1) SUNSET COCKTAILS
Don’t go to Naples expecting molecular gastronomy; restaurants play it conservatively. Among the more exciting new spots is Sea Salt (1186 Third Street South; 239-434-7258; seasaltnaples.com), a boisterous place that opened in 2008 and has been praised by magazines like Esquire for its devotion to local and organic ingredients. The menu, which prizes bold flavors over razzle-dazzle, includes a freshly made trio of buffalo mozzarella salad ($15) and a well-marbled Wagyu rib-eye ($42). The chef, Fabrizio Aielli, also has a thing for sprinkles: porcini powder, cinnamon salt and, of work, sea salt. The wine list roams the globe, with particular attention to Germany.
8 p.m.
2) WELL SEASONED
10 p.m.
3) EARLY NIGHT OWLS
Naples will seldom be known for its night life. But even here, 20-something fans of bottle service can go to Vision Night Club (11901 Tamiami Trail North; 239-591-8383; visionniteclub.com), where one rooms with disco balls and colored lights keep the dance floor moving. A mellower vibe can be found at Avenue Wine Café (483 Fifth Avenue South; 239-403-9463; avenuewinecafe.com), where Colin Estrem, the owner, caters to “young professionals, not the rich Naples crowd.” Inside, you’ll find patrons sampling the 100 wines and about 70 beers on offer. Outside, cigar aficionados puff away on the patio until the wee hours.
10 a.m.
4) ARTFUL CODGERS
Saturday
11:30 a.m.
5) MILLION-DOLLAR BEACH
You didn’t come for the art, but the Naples Museum of Art (5833 Pelican Bay Boulevard; 239-597-1900; thephil.org; $12; $6 for students and children; after April 25, $8; $4 for students) is a little gem, with a permanent collection that has a strong selection of American modernism (including works by Charles Sheeler and Oscar Bluemner) and Mexican modernism (renowned names like Tamayo and Orozco). The senior-citizen docents are lovingly bossy, and not shy about steering visitors toward what they think about the best views. A local favorite is Dale Chihuly, with his giant, pendulous glass chandeliers and sculptures with creeping, twisting colored tentacles. A special exhibition of his recent work is up through April 25.
2 p.m.
6) JOLLY GOOD
When the sun is strong, Neapolitans hit the beach. Don’t set up camp near the town pier at Fifth Street South — it’s crowded. Ditto for anything along the northern finish — lots of hotels. For a spot that’s right, head south toward 18th Avenue South, the last downtown street with direct beach access. (Parking can be scarce, so bring a pocketful of quarters and try nearby Gordon Drive.) With flip-flops in hand, a short walk south offers privacy. It also induces real estate envy. A number of Naples’s plushest over-the-top mansions are along this stretch of beach, and exposed to prying eyes.
A faithful adherence to classic pub fare draws a loyal crowd to the Jolly Cricket (720 Fifth Avenue South; 239-304-9460; thejollycricket.com), which opened last year along the city’s main drag. Ceiling fans and wicker chairs set the mood. At night there’s even a standards-playing pianist, complete with brandy snifter for tips. The kitchen turns out a succulent fish ’n chips ($17), served with housemade tartar sauce.
4 p.m.
7) DRESS UP
6 p.m.
8) HERE’S THE RUB
Downtown shopping favors women’s clothing and accessories. A number of the best shops are concentrated on Third Street South. Marissa Collections (No. 1167; 239-263-4333, marissacollections.com), a high-fashion fixture, added mini-boutiques for Oscar de la Renta and a men’s line from the designer Brunello Cucinelli. Another nice retail cluster lines Fifth Avenue South. Stop by Seraphim Boutique (No. 600; Suite 106; 239-261-8494; seraphimboutique.com), where Tanya Anderson, the owner, specializes in flirty, fun resort wear — the kind of thing you’d pick up on a holiday, like a Luna Luz tie-dyed halter dress for $154. Nearby is Loving Fine Jewelry (No. 640; 239-649-7455), where Jane Elliott, the owner and a goldsmith, features exquisite creations. A sparkling standout is the 14-karat pendant by Keith Rifenburg, a local craftsman, that depicts a little tropical scene on a paua shell ($895).
Until recently, spas weren’t as prominent as this city’s luxe reputation would suggest. So the arrival one years ago of a Golden Door spa (475 Seagate Drive; 239-594-6321; goldendoor.com/naples) was a cause for celebration — and a new reason to visit. Situated at the Naples Grande Resort, the 16,000-square-foot spa is filled with Asian-inflected details like bamboo groves and teak trim. There is a sauna, whirlpool tub and a meditation labyrinth, where you can unwind after an avocado-citrus wrap (50 minutes, $130).
8 p.m.
9) ALMOST MEDITERRANEAN
Beautiful harbor views and a flattering interior may describe the recent popularity of Olio on Naples Bay (1500 Fifth Avenue South; 239-530-5110; olioonthebay.com), a handsome waterfront restaurant. The tanned crowd looks even darker in the bronze-toned dining room (check out the driftwood accents), which spills outside and overlooks a yacht-filled marina. The Napa-meets-Tuscany menu includes a roasted chicken with tomato-white bean ragout ($23) and black grouper with herbed ricotta gnocchi ($29). A chilled milk chocolate semifreddo ($9) ends the evening on a sweet note.
Sunday
The thunking of tennis balls is heard everywhere in Naples, but most of the courts are sequestered behind hedges in high-end condo developments. That makes the Arthur L. Allen Tennis Center (735 Eighth Street South; 239-213-3060; allentenniscenter.com), in downtown’s calm Cambier Park, all the more remarkable. The 12 Har-Tru courts are as well kept as a private club’s, but somebody can play ($12 an hour). There’s a sign-up board to help you find pickup games at your level (blue cards for men, pink ones for ladies).
10 a.m.
10) MAKING A RACQUET
Beaches are great, but a slightly more educational way to experience Naples’s balmy climate is found at the dramatically expanded and renovated Naples Botanical Garden (4820 Bayshore Drive; 239-643-7275; naplesgarden.org; $9.95 admission; $4.95 for children; free under 4), which reopened last November with a focus on subtropical flora. Lush new Caribbean and Brazilian gardens are perfectly manicured, and the revamped Children’s Garden features a little herb patch and spraying fountains. The colorful butterfly house draws the most visitors, and as you look for the elusive electric-blue variety, you may run in to the couple you dined next to the previous evening. Par for the work in Naples.
1 p.m.
11) POWER PLANTS
IF YOU GO
The nearest major airport is Southwest Florida International Airport in Fort Myers, about 42 miles from Naples. Continental flies nonstop from Newark, and JetBlue does so from Kennedy Airport, with fares from $197 for travel in April, according to a recent Web search.
You’ll require a automobile to get around, and all the major companies rent at the airport.
The Hotel at Naples Bay Resort (1500 Fifth Avenue South; 239-530-1199; naplesbayresort.com) opened in 2008 along a picturesque waterway, as part of a mixed-use development. The 85 rooms, decorated in a comfortable, modern style, start at $269, and lots of include kitchens.
One miles away is its brother property, the Ritz-Carlton Golf Resort, Naples (2600 Tiburón Drive; 239-593-2000; ritzcarlton.com/naples), with similarly priced rooms and well-kept links. Both hotels feature giant spas with extensive service menus.
The Ritz-Carlton, Naples (280 Vanderbilt Beach Road; 239-598-3300; ritzcarlton.com/naples) is celebrating its 25th anniversary this year and remains a Naples mainstay. The giant rooms start at $599 and feature Bulgari bath products.
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