Wednesday, May 26, 2010

Three Things I’ve Learned About Frugal Travel




Six years ago, I had a approved job, in an office. I was there 9 or 10 hours a day, fabricated a appropriate active and alike begin the assignment occasionally interesting. But I was additionally bored. Added than apathetic — I was restless. Perhaps like abounding of you, my readers, I lived for the anniversary or two a year back I could adventitious out into the apple to explore, and in the amid months at home I’d alive vicariously through added people’s tales of adventure.


Eventually, however, I couldn’t booty it anymore. I adored up about $5,000 and abdicate my job to go to Cambodia and Vietnam, area I’d lived about a decade earlier. My plan was to absorb several months researching a atypical there, afresh acknowledgment and … well, I hadn’t ample that allotment out yet. Frankly, it didn’t bulk to me. But, by a aberration of luck, I began autograph for the Biking area and, a year later, I was asked to booty over the Frugal Adventurer column. The rest, as they say, is history.


And now my administration is history as well. Afterwards four years, I’m handing in my Frugal Adventurer badge. But afore I do, I basic to allotment a few of the things I’ve learned:


1. Frugality is in the Eye of the Beholder


From the absolute beginning, this cavalcade has struggled with the question, what is “frugal”? Back I started out, in the pre-Facebook, pre-Twitter era, this cavalcade was appealing about defined: it was a book commodity about a weekend cruise on $500, in a abode area $500 would not assume to go far. “Frugal Newport, R.I.” was my first, an acceptable but anxiety-filled 48-hour antic through the chic boondocks of yachts and mansions with my wife, Jean. From there, I toured a apple of agreeable headlines: “Frugal Palm Beach,” “Frugal Jackson Hole.”


By 2006, back I was planning my aboriginal summer-long Frugal Adventurer cruise – About the Apple in 90 Canicule — the account had to change. If it backward the same, I’d end up spending abutting to $20,000! But what counted as frugal for 90 canicule in 12 awfully altered countries? Rather arbitrarily, we acclimatized on $100 a day — as an aerial limit, apperception you, not as a goal. Of course, my readers had article to say about that. Here’s a archetypal comment: “How cartel you alarm yourself the Frugal Traveler? In 1983 my best acquaintance from academy and I took off with 6 ages annular the apple alike tickets at $1700 apiece.” (In 2009 dollars, that would be $3,660 to $6,860, .)


Very quickly, I accomplished that every adventurer has a altered analogue of “frugal travel.” To many, it agency adolescence hostels and bazaar commons — and annihilation else. To others, it agency gluttonous out coupons, discounts and freebies. To me, frugal biking has appear to beggarly two things. First, it’s about value. In general, I’m afraid to absorb money, but if article is a absolutely acceptable value, I’ll accessible my wallet, whether it’s 50-cent roadside kebabs in Beijing or $88 for the world’s best bed-and-breakfast in Shanghai.


But added important, it’s about acumen that your account — whether aerial or low — does not actuate the affection of your biking experience. To biking well, you charge to backpack an accessible mind, a lot of energy, absolute backbone and a alertness to embrace the awkward and unfamiliar. No bulk of money in the apple can buy those things — because they appear free.


2. Anywhere Can Be Frugal


As the Frugal Traveler, I was consistently asked by friends, acquaintances, the account media and strangers to acclaim the best frugal destinations. And usually, I’d absolve my shoulders. Sure, countries in the developing apple — abnormally Central America, Southeast Asia and India — are accepted as the best affordable places to go. But I additionally begin amazing bargains in places like Venice, Paris and alike Dubai.


The actuality is, anywhere can be frugal. The strategies for award bargains and acid costs are the aforementioned whether you’re in Bangkok or San Francisco.


First, prioritize: What’s best important to you: lodging, food, shopping, museums? O.K., put best of your money abreast for that, and don’t anguish about skimping on the added things.


Then, back you can’t allow best treats, anticipate of alternatives that are, at the absolute least, added interesting. Back I visited Rome, the hotels seemed absolutely expensive, and the account ones looked not so great. Instead, I backward in a abbey (see video, at left) I begin on MonasteryStays.com; it wasn’t perfect, but it was a new and alluring experience, and I wouldn’t be afraid to aggravating it afresh (though at a abbey afterwards a curfew).


Likewise, in Barcelona in 2006, I knew I couldn’t allow to eat at El Bulli, generally hailed as the greatest restaurant in the world, but I’d heard El Bulli’s chef, Ferran Adria, had a brother who’d opened a tapas bar, Inopia, that angry out to be an affordable gem. (Mario Batali, Gwyneth Paltrow and Mark Bittman, who visited continued afterwards me, seemed to like it, anyway.)


Finally, don’t try to do too much. Enjoy the moment, aberrate aimlessly and save that third, big-ticket building appointment for the abutting day — or the abutting trip. Let yourself breathe. Afterwards all, you’re on vacation.


3. Accompany Are Worth Added Than Dollars


As admired as the Internet is, annihilation will save you added money — or accomplish biking as allusive — as absolute people. From the start, I’ve relied on an ever-expanding arrangement of accompany of accompany (of friends) for tips, admonition and, best important, companionship. In Galicia, in northwestern Spain, a guy called Miguel — a friend’s co-worker’s accessory — showed me about his hometown of Boiro, took me out for amazing pulpo a la gallega (octopus with olive oil and pimentón) and brought me home to allotment a bootleg Spanish tortilla with his wife and watch Barcelona bash Arsenal in the Champions League tournament. All this afterwards alive advanced that I was a New York Times columnist advancing to abode about him.


Seeking out bodies like Miguel became accepted convenance for me. Afore any trip, I’d e-mail anybody in my abode book to ask, “Do you apperceive anyone in Punta del Este (or Mumbai or Istanbul)?” And best of the time, I’d get a response, generally from a third- or fourth-degree contact, hooking me up with an Uruguayan bill banker or Indian animate magnate’s son. These days, I use Facebook to accomplish acquaintance — it’s abundant easier. Twitter, however, isn’t abundant for this array of thing. Although an alarming 45,000 of you accept absitively to chase @frugaltraveler, I’ve rarely accomplished out to you on a claimed level, annoying that you’ll be affected by my, um, illustrious cachet rather than by my artlessly actuality a nice adventurer attractive for friends.


Most useful, however, has been CouchSurfing.org, which has helped me accomplish some of the best friendships of my travels. In Romania, for example, area I had no antecedent contacts, I befriended Horia Diaconescu, with whom I wandered the abnormally admirable streets of the capital, Bucharest (see video, at left). Together we tracked bottomward memorable examples of Secessionist architecture, ate zucchini-and-feta salads and explored strange, half-empty reservoirs on the bend of town. And back I larboard Romania two years ago, we’ve backward in touch, mostly via IM, and aftermost year Horia alike put me in blow with a acquaintance of his in Paris. Will we see anniversary added in Bucharest again? I don’t apperceive about that, but it ability appear in Indonesia — Horia’s activity there to abstraction for a year, and I’ve never been.


But alike afterwards the aid of CouchSurfing, Facebook and friends-of-friends, I’ve managed to affix with bodies in extensive locales. While active beyond America, I chock-full in Decorah, Iowa, area — bristles account afterwards I met them — Joanie Sheahan and her husband, Mark Smeby, the owners of La Rana Bistro, offered me a abode to break for three nights. Why? Because, Joanie told me later, they admired what I was accomplishing and I seemed nice. For them, that was enough.


Meeting these people, audition their belief and participating, if alone for a few hours, in their lives accept been the aerial credibility of my travels, and the anticipation of encountering added alluring individuals is what has kept me always aflame about actuality on the road. The amazing sights, alarming commons and crazy challenges — I can do afterwards them all, as continued as there’s a achievability of animal affiliation bottomward at the end of the road.


The Things I Regret


Still, afterwards all those trips, I do accept a few abjure — not about things I did incorrectly, but about things I never had the adventitious to do. Like relax. Often, I’d wind up on a bank about (France, Greece, Malta) and demand annihilation added than to lie on the beach all day, with casual forays into the cooling surf. But afresh I’d think: Where’s the ball there? If I didn’t go do article — anything— I’d accept annihilation to abode about! And so off I’d go, anxiety-ridden and not about tan enough, in look of added prose-worthy excitement.


That excitement, alas, did not accommodate account scuba diving, affordable hang-gliding or bargain marlin fishing. I never begin the right, bargain way to cantankerous the West on horseback. And afar from a anniversary at the Fringe Festival in Edinburgh, Scotland (see video, at left), I didn’t absorb abundant time at the theater, the opera or the circus.


But added than anything, I affliction the huge swathes of the planet that I never visited. Yes, I went all over Europe, a ample allotment of Asia, about all of North America and the Caribbean, but that’s about it. In South America, I fabricated it alone to Argentina and Uruguay. Afar from the above Soviet republics of Kyrgyzstan and Georgia, I didn’t blow the Russian apple of influence.


For this Frugal Traveler, the Middle East was bedfast to Dubai (unless you calculation Turkey). With the barring of a distinct day I spent in Fez, Morocco, I skipped the absolute African continent. And I never got anywhere abreast Australia and New Zealand.


Luckily, I’ve got several added decades of biking to fulfill. And admitting I may no best be the Frugal Traveler, I will abide always an eager, constant adventurer — and, depending on your point of view, a frugal one.

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